Chaw nres nkoj cawv: piav qhia, lub zog, dab tsi haus nrog. Keeb kwm ntawm Portuguese Port
Chaw nres nkoj cawv: piav qhia, lub zog, dab tsi haus nrog. Keeb kwm ntawm Portuguese Port
Anonim

Port wine yog dab tsi? Nyob rau hauv lub post-Soviet qhov chaw, nws yog txuam nrog tsis zoo wine, tab sis nrog ib tug siab cawv cov ntsiab lus. Tab sis qhov chaw nres nkoj tiag tiag tsis muaj dab tsi cuam tshuam nrog qhov muag hauv tetra packs rau ib sab tsis muaj dab tsi. Rau qee qhov laj thawj, German lub npe ntawm cov dej haus no tau pib hauv paus hauv Russia. Tab sis vinho ua Porto, lossis Vinho ua Porto, yog 100% Portuguese. Thiab tsis tsawg, tab sis noble keeb kwm. Hauv tsab xov xwm no peb yuav qhia txog keeb kwm nthuav dav ntawm cov dej haus. Peb yuav piav qhia txog qhov chaw nres nkoj zoo li cas. Peb kuj yuav hais txog yuav ua li cas pab thiab haus dej cawv porto. Tsis paub tias hom twg los xaiv hauv lub khw uas ntseeg siab lossis tsis muaj lub luag haujlwm? Peb yuav qhia koj seb yuav tsum tau qhia rau ntawm daim ntawv lo ntawm qhov chaw nres nkoj zoo.

Caw Porto
Caw Porto

Tshuaj ntsuab Tshuaj ntsuab

Nws tsis pub leejtwg paub tias cawv tsis muaj ntau yam ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo raws li nws yog hais txog av thiab huab cua qhov chaw nws loj hlob. Txawm hais tias muaj kev xav tias qhov chaw nres nkoj cawv "yug los ntawm txoj kev", nws tseem muaj terroir. Qhov no yog lub hav ntawm tus Dej Douro. Koj yuav tsum paub tias txoj kev dej no tseem ntws los ntawm thaj chaw ntawm Spain, uas yog los ntawmCov cheeb tsam caw ntawm Toro, Rueda thiab Ribera del Duero. Thaum tus dej, ua puv puv thiab qeeb, hla ciam teb Portuguese, nws dov nws cov dej ntawm cov pob zeb pob zeb shale. Lub Douro tawg los ntawm nws txoj kab nruab nrab ntawm qhov ntxhab, yuav luag cov toj siab, ntawm qhov nqaim terraces uas cov vaj txiv hmab tau tso tawm. Kub qhuav summers thiab frosty snowy winters tsim tshwj xeeb tej yam kev mob haum rau maturation ntawm tsis yog txhua txhua ntau yam ntawm vines. Qhov zoo tshaj plaws appellation rau chaw nres nkoj caw yog thaj tsam ntawm cov zos ntawm São João da Pesqueira thiab Régua. Cov qoob loo loj hlob nyob rau ntawd rau haus, uas muaj qeb ntawm Região Demarcada do Douro - nyob rau hauv lwm yam lus, "ib lub npe tswj los ntawm keeb kwm los ntawm Douro Valley." Thiab qhov no yog enshrined nyob rau hauv kev cai lij choj ua tsis tau tsuas yog ntawm Portugal, tab sis kuj ntawm European Union. Vim li cas cov dej haus muaj npe tom qab lub nroog Porto, uas nyob ntawm lub qhov ncauj ntawm Douro?

Porto wine terroir
Porto wine terroir

keeb kwm ntawm chaw nres nkoj wine

Thawj qhov kev sim ntawm winemaking tau ua nyob rau thaj chaw ntawm niaj hnub Portugal hauv Bronze Age. Cov neeg Loos thaum ub, tau ua thaj tsam thaj tsam, nthuav dav thaj chaw cog qoob loo thiab nthuav tawm cov thev naus laus zis tshiab rau kev tsim cov dej qab zib. Txawm li cas los xij, Italian ntau yam ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo tsis tiv thaiv microclimate ntawm Douro, uas cov neeg hauv zos lawv tus kheej hu ua "yim lub hlis ntawm lub caij ntuj no thiab plaub lub hlis ntuj txiag teb tsaus." Turiga Nacional tseem yog tus thawj coj ntawm lub vaj txiv hmab. Txhua yam hloov pauv thaum, nyob rau xyoo pua 11th, Duke Henry II ntawm Burgundy tau sib yuav tus ntxhais ntawm tus huab tais ntawm Castile thiab Leon. Raws li ib tug dowry rau tus ntxhais huabtais, Alfonso rau rau lub cheeb tsam ntawm Portucale. Henry II ntawm nopib tsim ib tug tshiab patrimony thiab hais kom lub zos ntau yam thauj los ntawm nws haiv neeg Burgundy. Tom qab mob siab ua haujlwm ntawm kev hloov pauv, lawv tau muab cov hauv paus ntawm cov av shale thiab hauv thaj av loj heev ntawm Douro Valley. Tab sis nws tseem tsis tau chaw nres nkoj cawv. Porto tshwm sim ntau tom qab. Ib qho dej haus medieval los ntawm Douro Valley hu ua viño de lamejo. Nws hloov mus ua chaw nres nkoj li cas?

Mars-yug

Feem ntau, kev tsov kev rog tsuas yog kev tuag thiab kev puas tsuaj. Tab sis nws yog kev sib raug zoo ntawm Askiv thiab Fab Kis uas coj mus rau qhov tseeb tias haus dej yug los. Nyob rau hauv lub thib ob ib nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 17th, Colbert tsoom fwv tau txwv tsis pub export ntawm Bordeaux wines mus rau lub British Isles. Cov neeg Askiv tau ua txhaum thiab tseem tsis kam xa lawv cov khoom rau Fabkis. Tab sis kuv xav tau qee yam cawv, thiab huab cua ntawm Foggy Albion tso cai rau npias thiab whiskey nkaus xwb. Nws yog thaum ntawd cov xim ntawm British tig mus rau Portuguese cawv. "Porto" thawj zaug tshwm nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv kev lis kev cai ntawm 1678 raws li ib tug haus dej los ntawm hiav txwv los ntawm lub nroog no. Tab sis cov neeg Askiv tau saj vinho de lamejo ua ntej. Txij li thaum 1373, muaj kev pom zoo tias cov Portuguese yuav them rau txoj cai mus ntes cod tawm ntawm ntug dej hiav txwv ntawm teb chaws Aas Kiv nrog barrels cawv. Tab sis nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 17th, cov neeg Askiv nyiam qhov aroma thiab, qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws, lub zog ntawm cov dej haus tshiab. Cov ntsiab lus cawv ntawm qhov chaw nres nkoj cawv yog li ntawm 17.5 mus rau 21 feem pua. Vim li cas thiaj muaj ntau? Tom qab tag nrho, nyob rau hauv zoo tib yam wine 11-13 degrees? Qhov no yog tus yam ntxwv feature ntawm chaw nres nkoj wine.

Barrels ntawm Porto cawv
Barrels ntawm Porto cawv

Ancient production technology

Nyob hauv nruab nrab Dourocov qoob loo tau sau, berries tau crushed thiab yuav tsum tau tso cai rau ferment. Tom qab ntawd cov tub ntxhais hluas, tsis yog txiv hmab txiv ntoo siav tau raug thauj mus rau Porto. Hauv lub nroog no, nws raug thauj mus rau cov nkoj xa mus rau ntug dej hiav txwv Askiv. Tab sis kev caij nkoj hauv hiav txwv tau siv sijhawm ntau dua ib lub lis piam hauv lub sijhawm ntawd. Cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo hluas, thiab txawm tias muaj acidity siab, feem ntau tsis zam kev thauj mus los. Yog li ntawd, nyob rau hauv cov chaw nres nkoj ntawm Liverpool, Bristol los yog Cardiff, nws tshwm sim hais tias vinegar kuj unloaded. Txhawm rau txo qhov poob thaum lub sijhawm thauj mus los, winemakers hauv Porto pib ntxiv brandy rau qhov yuav tsum tau ua. Kev nce qib dav dav kom ruaj khov rau cov dej haus thiab tsis tso cai rau vinegar fermentation tsim. Tom qab ntawd qhov sib ntxiv ntawm brandy rau lub fermenting yuav tsum tau los ua ib feem ntawm qhov chaw nres nkoj cawu cub technology. Qhov nce qib tau muab cov ntawv cognac rau haus, uas tau xa tawm. Thiab cov British nyiam nws heev. Tab sis nws tseem tsis tau yog qhov chaw nres nkoj peb paub hnub no.

Technology change

Thaum muaj kev xav tau ntau ntxiv, cov neeg tsim khoom lag luam tsis paub cai tau pib ntxiv cov txiv ntoo thiab qab zib rau cov dej qab zib uas tsis zoo thiab qaub. Qhov no ua rau muaj kev ntseeg siab ntawm British hauv chaw nres nkoj. Tus nqi ntawm nws poob, vim lub khw yog oversaturated. Lub npe zoo ntawm chaw nres nkoj tau txais kev cawmdim los ntawm Marquis thiab Prime Minister ntawm Portugal, Sebastian José de Pompalu. Nyob rau hauv 1756, nws tau qhia ib tug nruj lub moj khaum rau zus tau tej cov dej haus. Yog li, kev sau qoob rau nws tuaj yeem sau tau tsuas yog hauv Douro River Valley hauv peb thaj av: Douro Superior, Sima Korgu thiab Baixu Korgu. Cov kev cai rau ntau yam kuj tau nruj. Muaj 165 hom txiv hmab txiv ntoo loj hlob hauv Douro Valley. Tab sis tsuas yog 87 ntawm lawv tau tso cai rau qhov chaw nres nkoj cawv, thiab 29 suav tias yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws. Tus thawj coj, nyiamyav tas los, Toriga Nacional, nrog rau qhov zoo-hloov Burgundy vine Toriga Franca. Ntawm lwm hom liab, Tinta Rorish, Cau thiab Barroca yog ntxiv rau Porto tiag. Rau lub teeb haus dej, cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo ntawm Viocinho, Malvasia Fina, Goveyo thiab Donselinho yog siv. Tom qab ntawd, brandy (los yog cognac ntsuj plig) tau pib ntxiv rau cawv nyob rau theem ntawm nws fermentation.

Yuav ua li cas tam sim no

Zoo li qhov chaw nres nkoj cawv tuaj yeem ua rau txhua qhov chaw. Tom qab tag nrho, qhov no tsis yog li ntawd ntau npaum li cas wine raws li ib tug technology uas yuav tsum tau rov qab txawm tias sib nrug los ntawm terroir. Sib tov cognac ntsuj plig rau hauv fermented wort - thiab, voila, chaw nres nkoj yog npaj txhij. Porto, txawm li cas los xij, yog cov khoom sib koom ua ke yug los ntawm cov av, ib qho tshwj xeeb microclimate, ntau yam ntawm vines. Thiab lawv tsis tshua tau sim rov ua dua cov cuab yeej qub ntawm kev haus dej haus ntawm Kizlyar winery. Ua ntej, cov berries yog crushed nrog lawv ob txhais taw nyob rau hauv ib tug granite ntiav ntiav (txog 60 cm) vat, hu ua lagar. Ob qho fermentation thiab fermentation tsuas yog ob lossis peb hnub xwb. Tom qab ntawd los ntawm kev sib sau ua ke ntawm cawv los ntawm kev ntxiv cawv txiv hmab nrog lub zog ntawm 77 degrees. Muaj kev cuam tshuam hnyav ntawm fermentation tsuas yog thaum lub sijhawm kwv yees li ib nrab ntawm cov suab thaj twb dhau los ua cawv. Thiab nyob rau hauv cov txheej txheem no, lub ntsiab lus dag yog kom tshem tawm cov xim ntau tshaj plaws, aromas thiab tannins los ntawm qhov yuav tsum tau nyob rau hauv ib lub sij hawm luv luv ntawm vinification. Nws yog ib qho tsim nyog kom suav cov txiaj ntsig ntawm cognac ntsuj plig kom sib npaug ntawm lub zog, saj thiab aroma ntawm haus.

Porto wine making technology
Porto wine making technology

Type of port wine

Wine aging kav tag nrho lub caij ntuj no. Thaum lub sij hawm no, loj hlob wort yog poured los ntawm ib tugOak tej kas tham rau lwm tus kom cais cov sediment. Cov kws tshaj lij thev naus laus zis txiav txim siab qhov zoo ntawm qhov chaw nres nkoj yav tom ntej thiab muab faib ua pawg. Cov khoom ua tau zoo tshaj plaws - lub npe hu ua "cov qoob loo zoo tshaj plaws ntawm lub xyoo" - poob rau hauv chav kawm "vintage chaw nres nkoj". Cov pob tawb raug thauj mus rau lub cellars ntawm Vila Nova de Gaia, qhov twg lub hauv paus chaw ua haujlwm ntawm cov neeg tsim khoom tseem ceeb ntawm chaw nres nkoj cawv yog concentrated. Cov dej qab zib ntxiv tau muab cais ntxiv. Lawv muab faib ua pawg "Late bottling", "Ruby", "Tawny" (Tawny), Colheita thiab lwm yam. Cov British tshwj xeeb tshaj yog txaus siab rau liab, qhuav thiab seasoned ports. Nyob rau hauv teb chaws Aas Kiv, cov kev lig kev cai yog tseem khaws cia rau uncork ib lub raj mis cawv los ntawm nws lub xyoo yug nyob rau hauv feem ntau ntawm ib tug tub hluas. Tab sis nyob rau hauv Portugal nws tus kheej, lub thiaj li hu ua chaw nres nkoj verde yog heev txaus siab rau. Nws tuaj yeem yog ob qho tib si liab thiab lub teeb dej qab zib. "Verde" (ntsuab) lawv hu ua vim hais tias cov berries rau caw yog harvested unripe. Qhov no ua rau cov dej qab zib tshiab thiab ci me ntsis, zoo li champagne.

Porto Ruby

Lub npe cawv hais rau nws tus kheej. Nws tsis yog tsuas yog liab, tab sis tsaus ruby. Qhov chaw nres nkoj cawv no muaj lub ci ci tsw nrog ntsim peppery sau ntawv. Aroma yog tshiab, fruity. Ruby yog qhov pheej yig tshaj ntawm tag nrho cov chaw nres nkoj liab. Nws yog hnub nyoog nyob rau hauv oak chim rau ob peb lub hlis xwb. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov qis tshaj plaws ntawm qhov chaw nres nkoj cawv muaj nws tus kheej "vintage" version - "Fine Old Ruby". Nws yog ib qho kev sib sau ua ke, uas yog, kev txawj ntse xaiv sib xyaw ntawm ruby wine los ntawm cov vintages sib txawv. Qhov chaw nres nkoj no muaj hnub nyoog hauv cov thoob rau ob mus rau plaub xyoos. Tab sis muaj zog fruity cimwine tseem nyob, tsuas yog me ntsis saturated nrog ntoo qhib sau ntawv. Lub fortified cawv "Porto Ruby Reserve" kuj yog qhov txaus siab. Nws yog qhov zoo dua li Ruby li niaj zaus. Tus nqi rau cawv ntawm pawg no nyob rau hauv lub teb chaws tsim yog ntau tshaj li kev ywj pheej - los ntawm ob mus rau kaum euros. Txawm tias tom qab them cov nqi xa khoom hauv khw muag cawv hauv Lavxias, tus nqi ntawm qhov chaw nres nkoj cawv tsis pub tshaj 15 Є.

Porto Ruby
Porto Ruby

Tony thiab nws cov kwv tij zoo

Los ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo liab, cov khoom sib xyaw ua ke uas tau khaws cia hauv cov thoob rau tsawg kawg ob xyoos. Los ntawm kev sib cuag nrog tsob ntoo ntev, cov xim ntawm cov dej haus hloov cognac, thiab cov ntawv nutty tshwm nyob rau hauv saj. Ib txwm "Tony" yog muab tawm yam tsis qhia txog hnub nyoog. Cov ntawv cim ntawm qhov zoo tshaj plaws amber ports qhia lub vintage ntawm cov cawv txiv hmab qub tshaj plaws hauv kev sib dhos. Tab sis cov khoom xyaw yau tshaj plaws yuav tsum muaj tsawg kawg yog plaub xyoos. Qee zaum twb nyob rau theem pib ntawm kev loj hlob, "Tony" qhia qhov zoo. Tom qab ntawd tus kws tshaj lij kos lub thoob nrog cov ntawv sau "koleita" (sau). Thiab ces xws li porto wine ripens nyob rau hauv ceev ceev saib xyuas mus txog nees nkaum xyoo. Lub raj mis, cov dej haus tsis muaj peev xwm ntxiv lawm. Coleita chaw nres nkoj tuaj hauv ob qho tib si liab thiab dawb. Yog tias koj pom cov ntawv sau Colheita ntawm daim ntawv lo, paub tias cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo rau cov dej haus tau siav hauv xyoo zoo.

Portuguese wine porto
Portuguese wine porto

Porto Vintage

Ntawm no yog qeb siab tshaj. Nws yuav tsum siv sij hawm ob mus rau plaub xyoos nyob rau hauv oak tej kas tham. Thaum nws ntim rau hauv lub raj mis, cov cawv tuav nws txoj kev loj hlob. Thaum lub sij hawm, nws hloov xim los ntawmtsaus ruby rau golden xim av, thiab nws saj yuav ntau thiab ntau refined. Hauv thawj tsib xyoos, nws tuaj yeem ua haujlwm nrog cov khoom qab zib. Tom qab ntawd qhov chaw nres nkoj caw tau txais tart sau ntawv ntawm pomegranate. Lwm qeb siab tshaj yog "Single Quinta Vintage". Grapes rau haus yuav siav nyob rau hauv ntau xyoo, tab sis tsuas yog nyob rau hauv tib lub teb (quinta txhais tau tias "ua liaj ua teb"). Cov ntawv luv LBV sawv cev rau "Late Batteled Vintage". Cov qoob loo ntawm ib xyoos ripens nyob rau hauv ib lub thoob rau lub sij hawm ntev, tom qab uas nws yog fwj. Lub saj ntawm no wine yog complex, tuab thiab me ntsis ntsim. Hauv ib lo lus, yog tias koj pom cov ntawv sau "Vintage" lossis "LBV" ntawm daim ntawv lo, koj paub: qhov no yog qhov chaw nres nkoj zoo heev. Tus nqi ib lub raj mis hauv Portugal yog li ntawm 40 txog 100 euros. Chaw nres nkoj caw tuaj yeem haus cawv thiab nyiam … lossis nws tuaj yeem suav tias yog kev nqis peev zoo. Tseeb tiag, nyob rau hauv kaum xyoo, tus nqi ntawm nws tsuas yog nce.

Vintage cawv Porto
Vintage cawv Porto

Qhov ruaj khov xaiv

Puas txij li xyoo pua 18th, cov neeg Askiv pib tsim cov cawv txiv hmab. Txawm tias tam sim no, nyob rau hauv cheeb tsam ntawm Vila Nova de Gaia, cov cim ntawm Warre's, Cockburn's, Dow's, Graham's, Taylor's ripple. Thiab cov no yog cov tuam txhab tsim nyog ntawm txhua qhov kev hwm. Nws ntseeg tau tias cov British yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws ntawm kev ua Ruby thiab Vintage. Yog hais tias koj xav mus yuav liab caw liab "Porto Toni" thiab zoo xws li pawg, ces xyuam xim rau cov neeg tsim khoom hauv zos - Calem, Fonseca, Ferreira. Txawm li cas los xij, lub tuam txhab Portuguese Champalimaud kuj ua rau cov chaw nres nkoj vintage zoo.

Yuav ua li cas thiab haus

Ntau yam dawb thiab qhuav yog muab tso rau hauv txiasaperitif. Ruby tau txais kev pab ntawm chav tsev kub nrog cov khoom qab zib. Nws raug nquahu kom haus dej cawv porto liqueur yam tsis muaj khoom noj txom ncauj kom saj tag nrho cov nuances ntawm saj thiab aroma. Txawm li cas los xij, cov neeg Askiv siv nws nrog cov khoom qab zib noble cheeses. Muaj ib lub khob tshwj xeeb rau qhov chaw nres nkoj cawv. Nws zoo ib yam li cawv, tab sis me me.

Pom zoo: